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The
elaborated

coffee

The
definition

Within the Sapiens, methodology, elaborated products are the result of transformations of man and industry, and can be bought and sold on the market.

The definition elaborated product covers:
—Packaged green coffee that has undergone fermentation or natural drying, depending on the type of processing used
Roasted coffee (including its transformation into grounds or soluble coffee) and final packaging.

Espresso machine filter holder for bars, ground coffee and beans Raw coffee beans on the net
The fruit of the Coffea

From the fruit
to the green
bean

From the fruit
to the green
bean

Processing and methods

The next steps in the elaboration of coffee after it is harvested and transported to the work areas are collectively termed processing. These elaborations transform the coffee from a whole fruit (unelaborated product) into a dried green coffee bean. If it is destined for further elaboration (roasting), the bean must be considered an intermediate elaboration. Once it has been packaged for shipping or sale, it becomes an elaborated product instead.

Processing definition

The ‘processing’ is the combination of the steps required to transform the fruit in the dry green bean.

Processing definition

The ‘processing’ is the combination of the steps required to transform the fruit in the dry green bean.

Fermentation

When it comes to coffee, there are two main types of fermentation: wet and dry. The beans or fruits are placed in fermentation vats (of cement or stainless steel) for the dry process, where they are left for a set period of time. The difference between the two methods lies in the fact that water is added in the wet method, which helps to prolong the fermentation time.

Fermentation definition

‘Fermentation’ can be defined as all of the biochemical processes that metabolise an organic substance to produce simpler compounds. It takes place through enzymes from living microorganisms, which receive the energy they need for survival and reproduction in absence of oxygen.

Fermentation tanks Fermentation tanks

If poorly done, fermentation can cause a notable loss in quality and cause defects in the flavour. The role of the pectinolytic microorganisms in removing the mucilaginous layer is, therefore, of vital importance. Studies have been conducted to research how fermentation causes changes in the quality of coffee during its various stages.

Mucilage definition

The so-called ‘mucilage’ is the layer coating the parchment, which in turn is wrapped around the bean. Largely composed of pectins, it is broken down due to microorganisms which dissolve its structure.

The journey
of the green bean:
from the vat to the sack

After the fermentation, the processing includes washing and drying, followed by secondary stages and the transport of the green bean.

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the process to find out more
Drying
Cleaning
Hulling
Screening
Densimetric separation
Electronic sorting
Storage
Transportation
Coffee sacks

Drying

The process occurs via exposure to the sun, the use of mechanical dryers, or a combination of the two. Drying must be gradual and carefully monitored, to obtain an even dryness in the beans in the end. Humidity levels in the storage areas for parchment coffee and coffee cherries must be below 12 per cent to prevent the proliferation of fungi as well as the onset of undesirable flavours or odours.

The market

After natural gas, coffee is the world’s most exported raw material based on global export values. Professionals such as exporters and buyers manage the trade deals in the green coffee sector.

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Roasting

Roasting

Of all the steps in the roasting process, roasting itself marks a turning point which alters the essence of the product.

Steps of
the roasting
industry

During the delivery phase, the coffee is stored in temporary storage silos using elevators or conduits. The cleaning phase eliminates any foreign bodies that may have been left inside the sacks, before the possible blending phase and the roasting phase.

“Torrefazione” definition

The Italian term ‘torrefazione’ refers to both the process of roasting (toasting) edible seeds and to the roasting plant in which such seeds are processed, often further elaborated, packaged and sometimes sold or tasted. English has no direct translation of this second meaning of torrefazione. The rarely used English term ‘torrefaction’ has the more generic meaning of a thermochemical treatment.

“Torrefazione” definition

The Italian term ‘torrefazione’ refers to both the process of roasting (toasting) edible seeds and to the roasting plant in which such seeds are processed, often further elaborated, packaged and sometimes sold or tasted. English has no direct translation of this second meaning of torrefazione. The rarely used English term ‘torrefaction’ has the more generic meaning of a thermochemical treatment.

The process of toasting is the essence of the roasting industry

The process of toasting is the essence of the roasting industry

Physical and
chemical alterations

During the stage in which the green bean is transformed into the roasted bean — which can take from a minimum of three to a maximum of twenty to thirty minutes — a series of physical and chemical alterations take place affecting the colour, the shape, the volume, the mass, the moisture level and the density of the coffee bean, in addition to other characteristics.

The impact
of roasting on
the aroma

A limited number of compounds — largely belonging to the classes of thiols, sulphides, aldehydes, pyrazines, dicarbonyls, phenols, furans and furanones — determines the coffee’s quality, intensity, aromatic and taste characteristics. The concentration of these compounds may increase during certain stages of the roasting and decrease during others. Acidity is a parameter which, once a certain level of roasting has been reached, decreases relatively gradually, while bitterness does just the opposite.

Sour taste
Sour taste
Bitter taste
Bitter taste

Light

Medium
light

Light

Medium

Medium
dark

Dark

Coffee beans Coffee beans Ground instant coffee

Grinding

Grinding

The size and uniformity of the ground coffee can cause significant changes in the taste and aroma of the final elaboration, making the difference between a good extraction and an excellent one.

The main aim of grinding is to increase the specific surface area of the coffee particles which comes into contact with the water, thus optimising the extraction yield of the soluble and emulsifiable substances present in the roasted coffee. The ground elaboration must have a suitable granulometric (or particle size) distribution for it to be correctly extracted by the chosen method.

Grinding definition

‘Grinding’ is the process of reducing the roasted beans to coffee powder, fragments or small granules through the application of mechanical forces, in order to permit the preparation of the next elaboration.

Tools used
for grinding

Most coffee grinders offer a good variety of settings to produce different grind profiles. While calibrated machines and those which can be calibrated — potentially suitable for continuous operation — are used on an industrial level, in private use and other gastronomic contexts, many types of coffee grinder have become widespread, which are often suitable for different styles of grinding and elaborations.

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Coffee grinders for commercial and
domestic use

There are various types of grinder on the market. Normally, the machine consists of a part where the beans are inserted, another where they are ground, a system for switching it on and adjusting the parameters, and possibly a base part for sampling or collecting.

Most modern machines work with a timer, which is used to set the number of cups required and the machine’s running time. More accurate models allow the elaboration to be weighed when it goes in and sometimes when it comes out.

Tools used forindustrial grinding

Coffee grinders for industrial production may feature flat burrs or rollers. Those with rollers consist of one or two pairs of serrated rollers in series, sometimes positioned after another pair of rollers for pre-grinding. This type of coffee grinder is usually used for small and medium-scale production (50–500 kg/h).

The latest generation of multisectional roller grinders and flat burr grinders are therefore characterised by the presence of internal grinding mechanisms, sometimes arranged over several grinding levels. The burrs or rollers can differ in their diameter, length and calibration options.

Industrial and domestic grinding

As they pay an extremely high attention to the quality of the extractions, it is a duty for coffee producers and baristas to have versatile and efficient tools.

Coffee grinders for industrial production may feature flat burrs or rollers. Those with rollers consist of one or two pairs of serrated rollers in series, sometimes positioned after another pair of rollers for pre-grinding. This type of coffee grinder is usually used for small and medium-scale production (50–500 kg/h).

The latest generation of multisectional roller grinders and flat burr grinders are therefore characterised by the presence of internal grinding mechanisms, sometimes arranged over several grinding levels. The burrs or rollers can differ in their diameter, length and calibration options.

Quality factors

The grinding operation is a fundamental contribution for the success of the elaborated product and the final elaboration. In recent years, regulating the coffee grinder depending on the preparation method used by the barista has acquired growing importance.

Qualitative factors in grinding Qualitative factors in grinding

Main variables in grinding

Variability of the blend
The variety and origin of the beans, as well as the processing methods used on them, can change their composition and hardness.

Degree of roast
The pyrolytic reactions and resulting expansion of the beans influence the elasticity of their cell walls and hence their hardness. To allow the gas to disperse, appropriate degassing of the coffee (in silos) is essential.

Moisture content of the roasted beans
Quenching in water creates beans with a higher residual moisture content, with different characteristics for grinding.

Coffee grinder used
All grinding tools allow control over a greater or lesser number of parameters and the freedom to adjust their constituent parts.

Instant coffee

Instant coffee is an elaborated product which consists of soluble solids extracted from the coffee. It is obtained by processing the roasted and ground coffee in a particular way, with specific tools and techniques. The main stages are roasting, grinding, extracting and drying.

Coffee packaging scheme
Ground instant coffee Instant coffee Ground instant coffee

Coffee
tasting

Coffee
tasting

Through coffee tasting and sensorial analysis, it is possible to judge the quality of the blend, the effectiveness of the extraction method or the barista's skill.

The preparation
to tasting

The taster must naturally be in a physical condition conducive to tasting (not excessively full after eating or burdened by fatigue) and he must use palate cleansers (water, milk, puffed rice) between one cupping and another so that the senses are not overloaded during the experience (particularly the sense of smell).

The ideal environment for professional tasting features, first and foremost, abundant sunlight which does not inhibit the sense of smell; secondly, the absence of extraneous odours; and finally an average temperature of 20–24°C and humidity levels of 50–70 per cent.

The flavour wheel

To describe the aromas perceived during the tasting, we use specific terms that have been developed in the context of research carried out in the world of coffee. The coffee taster’s flavour wheel made its first appearance in 1995 and is still used today as a basic orientation tool in assessing a cupping.

The wheel terminology

The terminology used in the wheel of flavors is defined in the World Coffee Research Sensory Lexicon the greatest research ever carried out about the coffee aromas. It created a new vocabulary that identifies 110 coffee aromas and provides the taster with the means to express their intensities.

Aroma

Variety

Origin

Aroma
Sweet acidity, citric aroma
Sweet taste
Nutty and herbaceous notes
Light-bodied, floral aromas
Fruity notes, balance of sweetness and acidity
Floral and nutty aromas
Jasmine, orange blossom and bergamot
Strong acidity, citric aroma
Sweet notes of vanilla
Cane sugar, caramel
Floral and citrus aromas
Sweet and citric
Full-bodied, citric acidity
Yellow and red fruits
Typica
Bourbons
Catimors
Sarchimors
Villa Sarchi
Maragogype
Geisha
Caturra
Catuai
Jember
Pacamara
SL28
SL34
Villalobos
Central America, Jamaica, Asia
Africa, Latin America
Asia, Latin America
Asia, Central America
Central America
South America
Panama, Ethiopia
South and Central America
Latin America
Asia
Latin America
Kenya
Kenya
Indonesia
Origin

The
packaging

The
packaging

Packaging represents the phase in which the transformed product becomes available for purchase and use in context of consumption.

The shelf life of coffee

The coffee must keep an optimum level of sensory quality and food safety for a period of time determined by the producer under specific storage conditions.

For roasted and ground coffee, although some of the physical-chemical changes which take place during storage are considered inevitable, the intensity and speed with which they occur depend largely on environmental conditions, packaging process methods and the materials used.

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packaging to find out more
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The shelf life of the product depends on the type of coffee and on the environmental conditions of the storage: oxygen, temperature, humidity and light.

Materials

In addition to its functions as a barrier against oxygen, temperature, humidity and light (allowing CO₂ to be released from the packaging material where necessary), a good packaging preserves the coffee aroma, keeping and protecting it from external smells.

The packaging material changes according to the product, but it must always have some key features, such as being chemically inert, hygienically safe and suitable for contact with food.

Once the coffee package has been opened, the elaborated product’s ‘secondary shelf life’ begins, and is considerably shorter than that of the whole product.

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The
history

The
history

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Chapters featured

Chap. 1

What is “coffee”? The sapiens definition

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Chap. 3

Coffee as an elaborated product: the industry processes

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VIII - XIV Century
The history of coffee
as an elaborated product
African wooden mortar
Trade with the Arab world
and the earliest
forms of roasting
VIII Century

In the seventh century, Arab trade was already established at both a local and international level.

Coffee seeds were circulated via different routes, largely overland or along rivers. Because the fresh product was so perishable, it had to be transported as quickly as possible.

Pan for roasting coffee, late 19th century

In the late medieval period, trade relations between Ethiopia and the peoples of the southern Arabian Peninsula intensified notably, allowing the introduction of the plant and its earliest cultivation in what is now part of Yemen.

Between the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries plants were more often used in domestic elaborations and coffee made its historical debut as an energy-giving and medicinal spice.The first coffee-based beverages were produced by simply boiling the beans or the whole fruits, or even using the leaves.

The first known instruments for roasting coffee beans were almost certainly slender metal or earthenware pans, round in shape and often with holes, which went on to become widespread in the fifteenth century across the Ottoman Empire and Greater Persia.

The evolution of
roasting and the
conquest of Europe
XV Century

Muslim pilgrims and traders introduced coffee throughout the Islamic world (Persia, Egypt, Turkey, North Africa), turning it into a highly desirable and economically profitable product.

Antique coffee grinder

The Arabs consolidated their position as the only exporters to North Africa and the Ottoman Empire. This monopoly was so important to them that merchants were forbidden to transport beans to other countries unless they had been dried or boiled to destroy their capacity to germinate.

Antique coffee grinder
XVI Century

The first encounters between Europeans and coffee took place towards the end of the sixteenth century, a time when trade with Arab and Turkish merchants thrived (particularly in Venice, Marseilles and Izmir).

Beginning in the second half of the seventeenth century, with the growing success of cafés, coffee houses and shops in Europe, larger machines were being used for roasting.

The elaborated product
in the Age of Enlightenment
1668

The coffee was introduced to the court of Louis XIV. The king enjoyed both the beverage and its preparation. During the period when the colonies were at the peak of their splendour, the French dedicated themselves to producing tools for roasting.

Coffee roasting in the 17th century
XVIII Century

The first sales names, such as ‘Java’, ‘Mokha’ and ‘Bourbon’, began to appear. Different varieties are associated to specific characteristics and trade values.
The classification and standardisation of the raw product became an activity carried out by traders, who created categories which could, in turn, influence consumers.
Accompanying the spread and huge success of cafés in the busiest European cities came the adaptation and refinement of tools for roasting and grinding. The size of these tools was adapted to suit the size of the public places which began to roast coffee on-site and serve large numbers of beverages every day.

The elaboration of the
fruit and the bean in an
industrial society
Spanish postcard of the early 20th century

The most frequently used method to process the fruits was the drying method. It can be assumed that the wet processing method has been introduced to the East Indies towards the end of eighteenth century.

Thanks to the English, who during the nineteenth century exported various elements of their coffee apparatus, the coffee roasting industry made great advances, including in the United States.

Economies of scale
and innovations in
roasting

An unprecedented development in the machines took place. German, French, American and English inventors made continuous improvements to the roasting and grinding processes.

1871

From the 1870s, the earliest models of gas roasting machines began to be developed. The first machine capable of roasting, grinding, weighing, packaging and labelling coffee in small paper parcels was invented by the American entrepreneur John Arbuckle and patented under the name of ‘Arbuckle Ariosa’.

1889

Carl Salomon from Braunschweig introduced a quick-roasting technique using the principle of hot gas ventilation that reduces the duration of roasting to 20 minutes. Achieving quick roasting was always the main objective of European entrepreneurs.

Coffee roasting in the eighteenth century

XIX - XX Century

Around the turn of the century, the earliest attempts to create instant coffee were recorded. The first patent for instant coffee was filed in 1881 by the Frenchman Alphonse Allais.
The practice of home roasting fell into disuse. A number of entrepreneurs sought to provide the consumer with high-quality roasted coffee (sometimes even ground), eliminating the bother of roasting it at home.

1900

R. W. Hills invented the vacuum-packing process, which removed air from coffee packets and allowed people to have a fresher elaborated product.

From Modernism
to post-World War Two

Thanks to the tireless work of inventors, mainly Germans and Americans, the sector underwent further growth before the two world wars and prospered again in their wake. Coffee processing on plantations reached ever higher levels of precision during the first decades of the twentieth century. Proof of this can be found in the number of innovations that were patented during this period in relation to machinery for the various stages of processing.

Coffee grinder 19th century

1903

At the beginning of the twentieth century, the first models of electric roasting machines were patented. One of the first, from 1903, was the work of George C. Lester from New York. Its main advantage lay in the elimination of the smoke and vapours that could imbue the coffee with unpleasant smells and flavours.

Despite reduced consumption of coffee due to more restrictive policies on imports and the periods of war, roasting became a lucrative business, depending on the resources available.

Late Nineteenth Century

In large plants, industrial machines were used for grinding and others for the packaging process, with their own designated areas inside the plants. From lowest to highest, the grind could be coarse, medium, fine, very fine and powdered.

Grinder

1920 / Packaging

In the 1920s Lavazza began to use Pergamin, a form of packaging consisting of two layers of paper. During the first decades of the twentieth century, it was fashionable to have blends of different coffees specially created for a certain hotel, bar or restaurant. Mechanisation also provided a significant boost in the production of continuous-cycle machinery used during the packaging process for the whole or ground final product.

The era of international
agreements

The years following World War Two can be described as the era in which attempts were truly made to regulate the global coffee trade.

At the beginning of the 1950s, the leading European coffee roasters dominated the market, as they had during the Great Depression in America. The verticalisation of the production process aimed to guarantee a level of quality that could be reproduced in increasingly diversified and technical products.

1950s

One of the most highly prized innovations in production has been the use of airless vacuum packing in packaging the elaborated product, beginning in the early 1950s and allowing a longer storage time and wider distribution. During and after the Second World War, freeze-drying processes were developed. They contributed to the popularity of instant coffee.

Coffee roasting plant Coffee roasting plant

1963

The International Coffee Organisation was set up under the auspices of the United Nations. The International Coffee Agreement was first negotiated in 1962. The agreement, which was rewritten in 1968, sought to establish the quotas of producing countries and keep coffee prices high and stable on the market.

1971

From 1971, the company from Turin used vacuum-packing packaging for Qualità Rossa.
Then, from the mid-twentieth century onwards, came a boom in patents for domestic electrical appliances for coffee roasting and elaboration. The first speciality coffee houses for aficionados emerged during the 1970s and the following two decades were witness to the growth of the gourmet coffee industry.

Vintage packages of Paulista Lavazza coffee

1975

The severe frost that hit Brazil halved production with a resulting increase in world prices, which reached a record $3.30 per pound in 1977. Between 1975 and 1976, the terms of a new agreement were negotiated.

1994

A new international agreement is signed to increase international cooperation and to establish a permanent forum that would regulate supply and demand.

1990 / single portion

By the end of the 1950s in the United States, patents had already been filed for a system in which ground pressed coffee would be placed between two layers of filter paper in the precise quantity needed to prepare a cup of espresso with an espresso machine. In Italy in 1998, this system was combined with the dimensions and weight of the soft pod for the ESE (Easy Serving Espresso), a standard which is shared by many roasters.

A vitally important step in the history of capsule coffee was the introduction in 1989 of plastic capsules with the Espresso Point system, the first from the Lavazza brand.

Coffee as an elaborated
product at the dawn
of the third millennium

At the beginning of the twenty-first century, the global coffee market was dominated by large companies who were leaders in the sector. During these years, the market experienced strong growth, with an emphasis on product quality and the experience of the final consumer.

Vintage packages of Paulista Lavazza coffee

2004

The coffee was the most exported product in no fewer than twelve countries across the world and the second most exported commodity by value for developing countries from 1970 to 2000.

Concern for sustainability has swept over the coffee production sector as never before, with the consolidation of legislative frameworks designed to regulate the most ecologically and socially delicate aspects of the production industry.

Chapters featured
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Chap. 1

What is “coffee”? The sapiens definition

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Chap. 3

Coffee as an elaborated product: the industry processes

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